Kolkata’s iconic Chaltabagan Durga Puja, a beloved tradition since 1943, is set to captivate visitors this year with its powerful theme “Mool,” meaning roots. Nestled in the heart of north Kolkata’s Manicktala area, this Durga Puja celebration dives deep into the fading charm of old-world community life, taking a stand against the rapid changes brought by modernity and gentrification.
Sundeep Bhutoria, Chairman of the Manicktala Chaltabagan Lohapatty Durga Puja Committee, shares his thoughts on the theme. “Mool is our way of shining a light on north Kolkata’s disappearing culture through stunning art. It’s a reminder to reconnect with our roots and reflect on what’s slipping away,” he says. With Durga Puja now recognized as a UNESCO intangible cultural heritage, this theme packs a global punch, urging everyone to preserve the essence of para (neighborhood) traditions.
Picture strolling from Shyambazar to Shobhabazar through those narrow, twisting lanes of north Kolkata. It’s more than a walk—it’s a trip through the city’s living history. But gentrification is reshaping everything. Old havelis and colonial mansions get a facelift, turning into trendy boutique hotels, art cafes, and cultural spots for a new crowd. Classic tea stalls and bakeries now rub shoulders with hip coffee shops, and vibrant murals brighten up weathered walls. Sure, it adds fresh energy, but Bhutoria points out the downside: “These shifts are erasing the soul of our neighborhoods.”
He recalls how balconies and verandahs weren’t just buildings—they were the heartbeat of “rowak adda,” those lively chats that built strong community ties. As modern structures replace historic homes, those casual gatherings and neighborhood spirit are fading fast.
The Chaltabagan Durga Puja has deep roots in north Kolkata’s Lohapatty area, once buzzing with scrap iron merchants—hence the name, meaning “iron scrap neighborhood.” A group of young locals and businessmen kicked it off in 1943, and it stayed a neighborhood affair until the 1970s explosion.
That decade changed everything. In 1976, under Probir Ganguly’s lead, Chaltabagan made history by introducing the modern theme puja. They built a pandal mimicking Odisha’s famous Jagannath Temple, complete with incredible detail and scale. Crowds poured in from across Kolkata, and it sparked the trend of grand, themed Durga Puja pandals we love today.
From there, Chaltabagan kept pushing boundaries. They recreated India’s iconic temples like the Dilwara Jain Temple in 1981, Meenakshi Temple in 1984, and Golden Temple in 1985. Later, themes went global and historical—Mughal forts, and even a jaw-dropping Swiss Alps setup in 1990 with fake snow that became legendary.
The committee teamed up with top artists and artisans from Bengal and beyond, raising the bar on idols and pandals. They’re also pioneers in Durga Puja events, starting traditions like dhak utsav (drum festivals), khuti puja, sindoor khela, and special puja parikrama walks for elders. These have caught on statewide, making Kolkata’s Durga Puja festivities even more vibrant.
Today, no Kolkata Durga Puja visit feels complete without braving the long lines at Chaltabagan’s pandal. It’s a must-see for locals and tourists alike, blending nostalgia, innovation, and the unbreakable spirit of north Kolkata culture. As the festival approaches, expect “Mool” to spark conversations about holding onto our heritage amid change.
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